In the anime ‘Spirited Away’ a girl is forced to work at a bath house for nature spirits, in order to save her parents after they accidentally slip into the spirit realm. The film is a classic and is well worth watching, but my main reason for mentioning it is that the bath house in the movie is based on the real life Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama on the island of Shikoku.
Shikoku, the smallest and most rural of Japan’s four main islands and the least visited by tourists, has no World Heritage Sites and even fewer major tourist attractions, but it has a rural charm that is difficult to resist. If you are tired of the constant rush of the mainland and need a few days to chill, this is the place to come to.
Matsuyama
Matsuyama, the capital of the Ehime prefecture to the West of Shikoku, is a peaceful and relaxed town where the best way to get around is by tram or bicycle. I stayed at the Terminal Hotel near the station, and they are able to hook you up with a bicycle free of charge. Overlooking the town from the top of a sizeable hill is Matsuyama Castle, which has great views over the city. There are several walking trails up to the castle, which is open until 9 pm at night and free to enter. If you are not keen on hiking, there is also a cable car and a ropeway (small fee, one way or return), which will get you half way to the summit.
Dogo onsen is at the end of the tram line and worth a visit, if only for the step back in time to one of Japan’s earliest public bath houses. You can also get the chance to see (or possibly ride) the Botchan steam train which runs from Dogo Onsen to Matsuyama rail station several times a day.
Shinkansen high speed trains do not run to the island, so the best way to access Shikoku by rail is to use the local services from Okayama (which is on the Shinkansen Sanyo line). Trains from Okayama to Matsuyama, take around three hours but there are some nice views of the inland sea as the rail line meanders along the coast.
There are three road bridges from Honshu, with frequent bus services. Ferry services run on a regular basis from Kyushu and Honshu to Matsuyama, Yawatahama and Takematsu.
Twintail 